Destination: Mesa Verde National Park

Durango & Silverton Railroad (2004)

Right now I'm sitting outside a hole-in-the-wall bagel shop in Durango - about 50 miles east of Cortez.  This morning I drove one of the interns to the airport at oh dark thirty, so I figured I'd enjoy the change of scene out this way.  Durango is definitely a tourist town - complete with artsy shops, a historic railroad, and a lot of unique places to eat.  It's definitely a treat to get a bagel - you don't see them very often between St. Louis and well, California.

Mesa Verde at dusk

Today completes week four of my internship.  I just about have the weekly routine down (including unofficial field trip Fridays) and time is starting to pass a little more quickly.  This past week the interns got a taste of Crow Canyon's weekly program for students and adults who come to learn about archaeology.  We got to tag along with the adults in the lab, and the lab interns (also known as "labbies," we are "fieldies") got to come dig with us.  The week also included a field trip to Mesa Verde National Park (making it my second consecutive Friday in the park) about an hour southeast from Cortez.

Balcony House

Last Friday, I took a trip to Mesa Verde while most of the other interns were networking at the Pecos Archaeological Conference (I figured I'd save my networking for the east coast).  I drove around the park, getting a chance to see all kinds of pithouses and cliff dwellings.  I also took a tour of Balcony House - which meant climbing a 30-foot ladder to get to the site, and crawling through a narrow tunnel to get out.  It was a neat site - though I don't think Mom would have liked the heights very much :-P  In the evening I stuck around the park to hear George Mason Professor James Snead give a lecture on his research concerning ancient roads.

Mug House

Yesterday we toured Mug House - a pretty out-of-the-way cliff dwelling on Wetherill Mesa (to the west of Chapin Mesa, the main attraction).  We really had to do some adept rock-crawling to get down to the site, but it was worth it.  We got to see a painted kiva, and some pretty cool other structures.  The interns also drove to Spruce Tree House on Chapin Mesa.  It is splendidly preserved, and it was pretty awesome to give it a look with a more discerning eye than I had at 16 (when I visited Mesa Verde with Mom and Dad).

Otherwise, I've been doing a lot of chilling out, tasting the local beer (the writers of Dear Beer Friend would be proud), and working my way through the first season of Glee and The Columbian Exchange.  I wanted to thank everyone SO MUCH for sending me mail.  It is really nice to come back from the field and find a letter or postcard in my box.  You guys are awesome.

Interns at Mug House

This weekend: relaxation.  Next weekend: the great Salmon ruins and Chaco Canyon expedition.  It's going to be pretty epic - so keep your eyes peeled for an excited post mid-week six!

Morning

This is how I feel most mornings when I step out of my cabin and come down the hill for breakfast.  (Even Mondays.)

i thank You God for most this amazing
day: for the leaping greenly spirits of trees
and a blue true dream of sky; and for everything
wich is natural which is infinite which is yes

(i who have died am alive again today,
and this is the sun's birthday; this is the birth
day of life and love and wings: and of the gay
great happening illimitably earth)

how should tasting touching hearing seeing
breathing any-lifted from the no
of all nothing-human merely being
doubt unimaginable You?

(now the ears of my ears awake and
now the eyes of my eyes are opened)

e.e. cummings 

Island in the Sky

I arrived at Crow Canyon two weeks ago today and I'm finally pretty well settled in.  I live in a "rustic" cabin, maybe about eight by ten feet.  One of the interns calls it her shed.  My grandma said it looked like an outhouse.  I'll let you decide.  It works out pretty well - I don't have heat, AC, running water, or electricity - but I can get all of the above in the nearby lab building (where I am now).

Home sweet home

I spend my days in the field, and by that I mean inside a one meter deep hole.  Crow Canyon's participants (middle schoolers, high schoolers, and adults) do most of the digging at the site, but that leaves all the finishing touches and documentation to the archaeologists, Grant and Steve, and to us interns.  This is the last year of the project, so there's a lot of work for us to finish up in the field.  This week I should finish digging my unit, which is part of a midden (think: trash heap) that's probably a thousand years old - I have to look at the pottery I've found to get a better idea.  Ancient trash.  Cool.

Hanging out at Woods Canyon Pueblo

Since there are a bunch of new interns on campus, we've been taking a lot of trips to nearby sites.  Susan Ryan, one of the research archaeologists, took us to Albert Porter Pueblo and Woods Canyon Pueblo to the north.  Porter and Woods were among a group that Crow excavated earlier in the 2000s.  You have to have a sharp eye and be able to read the landscape and surface scatter of artifacts to figure out where sites are.  It was a little more obvious at Woods Canyon - as you can see below.

The interns at Aztec

We also had the chance to visit Lowry Pueblo, which is at Canyon of the Ancients National Monument.  Like many of the sites out here, Lowry was excavated and preserved early in the 20th century.  It has a very large kiva (or as my adviser would say, a "big ass kiva") - a kiva being a subterannean structure used as a gathering place for religious and community purposes that exhibits some signs of influence from Chaco Canyon (you'll be sick of hearing about Chaco by the time I leave in October).  This Friday we took an intern field trip to Aztec, a site in New Mexico that was most likely a colony or "outlier" of Chaco Canyon.  It was a neat site, and we had fun hanging out with the Park Service archaeologists and becoming junior rangers.

Courthouse Rocks at Arches Nat'l Park

Yesterday a couple of us also took a day trip to Utah to check out Arches and Canyonlands National Parks.  I must say, it was pretty darn cool.  We took a few fun hikes in Canyonlands (Islands in the Sky district - so aptly named!), and the views were just breathtaking.  It was drizzly for most of the afternoon, and rained for the drive back to Colorado, but the clouds made nature look all the more mystical.

Mesa Arch at Canyonlands

Monuments, Mounds and Mountains

Two weeks back (yeah, I'm really behind the times) Paul and I embarked on our grand trip our west - four days, 2000 miles from Clifton, Virginia to Durango, Colorado.  It was actually a really neat trip - traveling through different cultural and physical landscapes, seeing the west unfold over a couple days, and trying to get the best gas mileage possible in my Jetta (and analyzing the reasons why we weren't getting as good mileage as we could).  Day one took us to Indiana, Day two to western Illinois, the Cahokia Mounds site, and St Louis, day three to Kansas, and day four to Colorado.

Did you know that it takes a very long time to drive through West Virginia and Kentucky?  We spent most of the day doing just that - going first through western Maryland, then lengthways through both WV and KY.  A lot of rolling hills and farms and that still-near-home feeling.  We stopped for the night in Evansville, Indiana, just shortly after everything got flat.

Monk's Mound from a distance - it's so big that it's hard to get a good picture!

After all that driving, we were glad to have only a few hours to our destination for day two: Cahokia Mounds Historic Site.  Anyone who is a student of North American archaeology knows that Cahokia is just about as cool as it gets.  It is the best example of a pre-Columbian city north of the Rio Grande; at Cahokia's height 15-20,000 inhabitants lived on the site.  Just across the Mississippi River from St. Louis, Cahokia was a huge center of the Mississippian "mound-building" tradition.  Today the park preserves about 70 of the 80-100+ mounds that Native Americans built early in the second millennium AD.  Some have burials, but others were most likely used for ceremonial purposes.  Most prominent is Monk's Mound, the largest pre-Columbian earthwork in North America.

Paul and me halfway up Monk's Mound

For several years, Cahokia has been one of those must-visit places for me, so I was thrilled that we could take time to see the site.  (I was even more thrilled that Paul was such a good sport about putting up with my nerdy infatuation with the place.)  We took a four or five mile hike around the site, visiting Mound 72 and Monk's Mound.  There was also a great late-80s/early-90s museum that made me feel like a kid again.  That evening, Paul and I drove into St. Louis to see the gateway arch and get some good beer at a local brewery.  From the little I got to see, I really liked the city.

Day three took us through Missouri (flat, but lots of trees), and Kansas (just as flat, but without all the trees).  I believe we were pretty tired of driving by this time, but there were some neat sights to be seen.  A lot of wind turbines, pro-life roadsigns (I think we saw the most in Missouri and Kansas), and corn.  Not much else to say about that.  We stopped for the night in Larned, KS, where we stayed with Paul's cousin Mark and his family.  They took us out for some delicious Mexican food and (my favorite) a trip to the county fair.  We got to see all kinds of animals, from chickens to goats to horses, as well as a neat rodeo.

 Roping a calf at the rodeo in Larned, KS

I'm convinced that the sky gets bigger as you go out west.  Maybe I'm just used to Virginia woods and buildings everywhere, but for real - there is so much sky to be seen.  You could see that more and more as we drove through the rest of Kansas and into Colorado.  There were some stretches of road in eastern Colorado where we didn't see anything (or anyone) but landscape for fifty miles or more.  It was absolutely beautiful once we started getting into the mountains.  Unfortunately, we hit a huge rainstorm between the Rockies and the San Juan mountains and it lasted all the way to Durango.

Nothing for miles and miles

It was a pretty cool (albeit exhausting) trip.  I must say I was very glad when the driving was over, though that meant dropping Paul off at the (tiny) Durango airport on Sunday morning.  I'll be picking him up ten weeks from that day - October 3 - for the return trip once my internship at Crow Canyon is finished.  We're going to take a little longer for the return journey, so I can give Paul a tour of some of my favorite places in the southwest.

"We can make squirrels!"

Hello again, loyal patient readers.  It is after 10pm and therefore far past my bedtime, but I thought it was high time to start writing again.  Right now I am sitting in Crow Canyon's basement lab, also known as the land of electricity (I live in a "primitive" cabin).  The environment has improved significantly since Elizabeth (one of my fellow interns) and I cleaned the muddy floor, and Jennifer (another intern) removed the putrid smelling mystery skull from the animal bone shelf next to me.  It's a pleasant enough work space - I am surrounded by archaeological supplies, books about Native Americana, and some very large blue and white speckled pots next to a box labeled "zooarchaeology cooking supplies."  Yep.  It pretty much delights my nerdy heart.

 Hanging out with my fellow RPAs Eric, Sarah, and Katy on the ferry to Surry, Virginia

But alas, wasn't I just in Williamsburg?  Yep.  Another place that delights my nerdy heart.  The NIAHD program, much to my chagrin, ended in mid-July.  It was certainly a unique experience - sharing the floor of a dorm with 20 high school girls - but I really loved spending time with them and my fellow RPAs (Resident Program Assistants).  On the last day of the program, we awoke to find that the girls had made us t-shirts.  Mine read "Top ten reasons to <3 RPA Laura" listing everything from my silly facial expressions to my tendency to distract them from their work (and yes, the one time when I blurted "we can make squirrels!").  It was a fun program - touring (as a chaperon) historic sites all over Virginia, teaching the students to do a bit of archaeology, and getting to know some really awesome people.

 Third floor RPAs - Jen, Amelia, Nichole and me - wearing our t-shirts

I had about three days at home - just enough time to stuff myself with Mom's amazing cooking, do laundry, bake pie and eat it with friends, and catch up on my TiVo before the trip out west.  But alas, I have an early breakfast call and a midden that needs to be dug tomorrow morning - so it'll have to wait.