before-it-was-Virginia Heritage: Wade Site

I got up obscenely early (as in, before 5am) on a Monday morning in June, packed up my car, and drove down to Longwood University's campus in Farmville.  From there, I joined a caravan to the site house, then onto the Randy K. Wade Site in Randolph, Virginia.  Archaeologists and field school students from Longwood have been excavating at the Wade Site for over ten years, which has allowed them to amass a huge amount of data on the Native Americans who lived there from about AD 900-1425.  They also conduct their research in consultation with Sappony Indian Tribe of Virginia and North Carolina (which I find especially exciting).

Geographic location of the Wade Site, 44CH62, in Charlotte County, Virginia

This year, the field school opened an 8x8 meter unit (note: this is a pretty large area, but manageable with 20 eager diggers).  I volunteered during the third of four weeks, when they were cleaning up the lower portions of the plow zone (natural or cultural fill disturbed by plowing, usually a couple feet deep) and beginning to define the outline of features (cultural deposits like pits, postholes, and hearths).  They drew plan maps of their features on Friday morning and started excavating them in the afternoon.  I wish I could have stuck around for the rest of the field school to see how feature excavation went!

The block had dozens of features - we're looking at some pretty dense occupation here!

Since my experience in prehistoric archaeology has primarily been in the southwest, this week was a great opportunity to experience Mid Atlantic/Southeastern material culture.  Since the site was probably an island on the Staunton River during its prehistoric inhabitation, there was a lot of fish bone, turtle bone and shell, and riverine shell.  Additional artifacts included ceramics and lithics - both projectile points and debitage/flakes (the "byproducts" of stone tool production).  There were also some human remains uncovered - as I understand it, not an uncommon occurrence for this site.  Longwood archaeologists and Sappony leaders have consulted and worked out a procedure for the partial excavation of human remains and associated funerary objects - after which all materials are reburied.  I found this agreement particularly interesting (and promising), especially considering the sensitivity of such issues.

Discussing the context and treatment of human remains at the site

Despite the incredible heat, my week with Longwood's field school was a really great experience.  They were a very hospitable group and I really enjoyed spending time with everyone both on and off-site.  Guess this is what it's like being in the (real) South!

Virginia Heritage: Colchester

Digging is one of my favorite Saturday pastimes.  After spending a long week in the stuffy, air-conditioned office, it's wonderful to spend a day in the fresh air.  However hot, it's a pleasant way to decompress and (quite literally) get my hands dirty.

While in past years I've spent many Saturdays volunteering with Alexandria Archaeology at the Shuter's Hill site by Old Town Alexandria's Masonic monument, this February I started volunteering with the Colchester Archaeological Research Team (or CART) in southeastern Fairfax County.  CART focuses on the excavation of both historic and prehistoric site components on county-owned land around the Occoquan River and the Mason Neck.  I've spent a few fun Saturdays excavating at the historic tobacco port town of "Old Colchester," which is located just across the river from Occoquan.  The town dates primarily to the second half of the eighteenth century and though there's only one original structure left, there's a wealth of history underground.  It's still early on in the project - it seems like every time I'm there the team has found a new mystery structure or soil anomaly.  I definitely recommend checking out CART's blog if you're interested in following the excavations.

An especially fun unit I was working on back in April - I think they eventually had to saw out this tree/root

Since I be moving back to Williamsburg for grad school next month, I won't have as many free Saturdays in Northern Virginia.  However, I look forward to continued volunteer days with CART and Alexandria Archaeology during breaks!

Weekends

...probably my favorite part about working, rather than being in school!  Since it's been a while, I wanted to share a couple photos and stories from the past few weekends.

I went down to Williamsburg for Class of 2011 graduation - so much fun!  It's hard to believe that they are all grown up.

I got to spend time with a lot of friends that weekend, including Shoop and Stephen :)  Saturday evening included some Magic Hat #9, Harry Potter 7.1, and a fun German train game.

Paul enjoys home cooked meals...except this one!  I put a little too much cayenne in my cajun chicken and penne, thus the tears.

I got plants!  I bought Basil (pronounced Bah-zul) the basil plant Mothers' day weekend, and then Paul and I got Tom the tomato plant and Holly the jalapeno plant at a farmers market a few weeks later.  Basil has gotten several significant haircuts already for some delicious pesto :)

Paul and I also went to NJ for memorial day weekend...and this weekend we helped my dad fell a tree.  What's next?  This week I'm headed down south to Clover, VA to join Longwood University's archaeological field school for the week.  After that I'll be driving down for a week doing archaeology at the Great Dismal Swamp with American University's field school.  I'm really excited for the opportunity to work at these sites, and enjoy those humid Virginia summer days.

Holiday Highlights

Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year!  I feel a little better now that we're caught up with holiday greetings.  It's been an exciting, crazy, and fun holiday season but somehow I'm very glad that things are winding back down...I've had plenty of days of a full stomach, given my liver enough of a workout (I neglect it shamefully sometimes), and eaten my fair share of tasty desserts.

Psyched to go to Narnia again, in our 1940s gear!

Some holiday highlights: None of the four dogs assembled at home got into the turkey neck, mashed potatoes, or cranberry sauce on Thanksgiving.  They (or rather their dander) did prove a formidable enemy to Paul's sinuses on Christmas, though.  Maybe I should buy stock in benadryl...  I had a fun weekend in Williamsburg to celebrate Gaudete Mass (third week of Advent, Gaudete means "rejoice") and finally got to see Voyage of the Dawn Treader, Narnia #5 or #3, depending on how you're counting.  I spent about a week in New Jersey with Paul's family - the first few days were intentional, and the rest were the result of the crazy post-Christmas blizzard that dropped over two feet of snow in the area.  All the same, the Masurs proved lovely company, especially due to their tolerance of my love of "boring" historical films.  I actually made it to a few daily Masses, and Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve was beautiful (I don't care what you said about the music, family, it was awesome).  And for the big news, my brother Chris and his girlfriend Katie got engaged on Christmas Eve - congratulations!

I headed back to work this week - not as an intern, but a contractor in the Repatriation Department of the NMAI.  I'm very excited to be spending the next four months in the office.  Especially since I've discovered the bountiful Smithsonian library system.

Autumn Blush

I've had a very exciting month since my arrival back in Virginia, with two weekends in Williamsburg and a trip to New York City with work this past Friday.  I must say that it's left me in a bit of an exhausted state.  As much as I love seeing new (or rather, old and well-loved) places, there is something to be said for being at home.  But for now, I am an itinerant.  Home changes day by day, and I don't think I'll feel quite settled again until I have a place of my own.

I enjoyed spending time in Williamsburg again - compared to my usual haunts in Virginia, D.C., and Maryland, it's very quiet (though there were some pretty crazy parties on campus Halloween weekend!).  There are plenty of places to go walking, and just enjoy not hearing cars or trains whiz by.  And of course, there are many wonderful people to spend time with.  It was so good to catch up after my long sojourn in Colorado.

Last Saturday evening I had a free hour before meeting a friend for pizza.  It was nearly dusk; the sky was painted pink and orange by the setting sun.  Just as the blue sky widens west of the Mississippi, I am sure that light becomes sweeter and softer in autumn.  The rose light of sunrise can render beautiful even the most unromantic of city streets.  I grabbed my camera, hoping to snatch a few photos of the autumn dusk.  While I arrived a little too late to get any good photos, I passed the hour in a peaceful walk through Colonial Williamsburg, enjoying the red and orange leaves against brick buildings.

Saying Goodbye

It is the nine o'clock hour; I'm sitting in my basement "office," gathering my things and crossing a few last to-dos off the list.  Campus is quiet, but for the sprinklers and the other interns, in a slightly modified version of our Saturday night routines.  My car is packed, my phone is charged, and I made my last several-minute commute to the "super hogan" bathroom for a shower.  Those of you who are well acquainted with my usual before-I-leave routine know that I am usually up all hours of the night packing.  I can't tell you how strange this calm, peaceful night feels.  Paul's plane lands in Durango in about twelve hours.  I may not sleep tonight after all.

Around noon today, I drove up to Dolores.  I rolled the windows down, opened the sunroof, and let the wind blow through my hair as I drove down the country road, accompanied by mesas and mountains in the distance.  I will miss this, I thought.  I will miss the sunrise and the purple mountains in the morning; the late evening sun shining on Mesa Verde to the east, clouds every color of the rainbow.  I will even miss hot afternoons in the field, baking under the dry sun, looking to the southwest in hopes of a few clouds for shade.  This country is a wonderful, peaceful place.  But it's time to leave.  Virginia is home.

We took a midweek field trip to "Big Point"

I finished up work in the field on Friday - I did paperwork on several units, backfilled, and drew a profile map of a kiva.  Now Steve and Grant (my supervisors) will be racing against time to get all the units finished up before the snows come in a month or so.  We had a party last night - it was a good way to say goodbye to the staff, and enjoy a few more local brews.  Crow Canyon, and Cortez for that matter, is an awesome community.  People are so friendly out here - I will miss the random conversations with townies and cashiers in little shops.  Perhaps I just need to look a little harder to find these things at home.

Kiva unit - look at that huge hearth!

Paul and I will be making our way home over the course of eight days and about three thousand miles, including visits to Mesa Verde, Four Corners, the Grand Canyon, Santa Fe, Dallas, New Orleans, and Atlanta - and as many brew pubs as we can find!

Chance Encounters

It's been a pretty quiet week - no big thunderstorms, field trips, or life-changing events.  I spent almost the entirety of last work week digging a small test unit (1x1 meter) - it just kept getting deeper and deeper, and I couldn't find any indication of sterile (sans artifacts) soil.  Alas, today my supervisor and I pulled out the big guns - a rock pick - and after some probing, he decided that it's probably an early kiva (circular subterranean structure).  So it looks like I have a lot of digging to go, but at least now I have some perspective.

I sit under this tree during lunch, and also occasionally nap.

This past Saturday was Crow Canyons second annual Open House Festival - visitors came from near and far to explore our reconstructed pithouse and pueblo, learn to throw an atlatl, and enjoy Chef Jim's delicious green chile stew!  It was a beautiful day and a lot of fun to see so many families enjoying campus.  It's days like these when I realize that while I enjoy archaeology, my passion is also to teach and make research accessible on lots of different levels.  As many of you also know, I am quite fond of talking, and it was fun to get to chat with so many different people during the Open House as well.

Friendship dance with the Pow Wow dancers at the Open House

On Sunday I made an expedition to a local coffee shop, in search of some good coffee and a change of scene.  The coffee was indeed delicious (I had the Guatemalan blend, of course), and I had some time to catch up on letters.  I also spent several hours in friendly conversation with a local storyteller (Remember Lorenzo?  This man was like his PG counterpart).  Cortez is such a welcoming place.  The community, if not the landscape, is probably my favorite thing about the area.

Mom and Dad are due to arrive in less than 48 hours - I can't express my excitement!  It will be so much fun to show them around Cortez and Crow Canyon, and I'm especially looking forward to our expedition into the mountains: Durango, Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Rico, and Dolores.  The best part?  Each town has its own brewery!

On Home, and Hovenweep

All of the sudden, my life here has become almost, well, busy.  I'm down to the last three weeks of my internship, and perhaps for the best, I'll be working a lot, and running all kinds of crazy places before Paul flys out for the "extended" trip home.  I've snagged a sweet babysitting job, Crow Canyon's open house is set to happen this Saturday (somehow I've been assigned to the decorating committee...), and to boot, Mom and Dad are flying out for a visit mid-next week - we'll be driving up north into the mountains for a couple days.  I can't say that I'll miss the gloriously lazy evenings and weekends on campus too much.  I was never very good at being bored - or being motivated to get anything done unless there's a deadline.  As much as I despise beltway traffic and sprawling suburbs, it will be so good to be home.

Home.  It has come to mean so many different things to me over the past few years.  Home, where I grew up.  Home, where I walked colonial streets and figured out what kind of person I wanted to be.  Home, where I walked Spanish colonial streets and figured out what kind of person I wanted to be.  Where there are always people bugging me to bake pie; where leaves fall in the autumn;  where scorpions and rattlesnakes do not roam.  But most of all it's a place where I share my life with loved ones, and where I can be at peace with God.  It's human intimacy - in the best, most wholesome sense of the word - that I miss most when I'm away.  Hugs.  Heartwarming conversations.  Coffee.  Meals.  Smiles.

I remind myself each day that I am living such a wonderful experience out here.  I breathe deep as I walk up to my cabin in the chilly evening air, gazing at the big dipper and the milky way.  I soak in the sun during lazy lunches in the field.  I savor the delicious southwest-style food that the kitchen staff cooks up.  Life won't always be this simple, and this time is truly a gift.

My supervisor pulled one of these out of a kiva on Friday!

Last Saturday we took another intern field trip.  First we visited the Anasazi Heritage Center just a few miles north in Dolores, CO.  It was really cool to see some artifacts on display (mostly some unusual ceramic vessels), and grind maize with a mano and metate (it's really hard work!)  In the afternoon we drove west, across the border to southeast Utah.  A note on Utah: it's really desolate, at least the eastern portion that I have seen, aut at the same time the landscape is absolutely magnificent.  We visited the main site (Square Tower) of Hovenweep National Monument and hiked a few miles into and around the canyon.

Hovenweep's "Twin Towers," a fitting reminder for 9/11

It was a late site, late 13th century, with a whole ton of towers on the rims of canyons.  The function of towers in this period is still in many ways a mystery.  The fact that they built a big one inside the canyon leads me to believe that their function was not just defensive.  In any case, we headed back to Cortez in the early evening for a delicious dinner at the home of one of Crow Canyon's archaeologists, where I ate green chile stew, my new favorite food, for the first time.  I'm serious, this stuff is delicious.  It's like southwestern-style pot pie.  Only better.

The "Castle"

Excited for home, three weeks and counting.  But trying to make the most of every day I have left on the great sage plain.

Days Go By

My little boyfriend, José, one of the boys I tutor at the Semillero de Mi Angél Guardián. A bunch of us went to the pool a coulple Wednesdays back.

Well, it’s my next-to-last full weekend here in Antigua – hard to believe! I have now been here a full fifteen weeks and only have two more before I head home to Virginia. How the time has flown! I must say I am beginning to feel ready to go home. Things are winding down here: we have done course, program, and homestay evaluations and I am only a few more classes, two papers, and two Spanish exams (and a trip to the Maya site of Iximche) away from heading home. It will be so hard to leave Antigua. I have come to love the city we well as my host family and everyone at CIRMA so much!

I know it’s been a while since I posted. I have had a lot of papers, projects, and exams lately – it seems the semester is finally catching up with me. The transition to new leaders for next year at W&M has taken place as well, so I’ve been busy trying to keep up with events and planning at home. All the same, I’ve had plenty of opportunities to have more adventures here.

Mom and Dad came to visit last weekend. I met them at the airport Thursday – I can’t tell you all how good it was to see familiar faces!! We made our way to Antigua and got lunch (Dad enjoyed Gallo, Guatemala’s beer), then Mom and Dad rested while I went to classes, a colloquium speaker, and a CCM board meeting by skype. We checked out the Meson Panza Verde (Green Belly Inn) for dinner and turned in relatively early. On Friday I showed Mom and Dad around Antigua. They must have brought the Virginia rain with them, because we had our first shower of the rainy season! I finally got to visit the Antigua Vineria (wine shop), which I had been eyeing up for about three months.

We took a bus to Panajachel at Lake Atitlan on Saturday. Mom and Dad learned what an adventure it is to travel by minibus in Guatemala. We took a boat tour and visited a few towns on the lake, where people tried (and succeeded) to sell us things, then got lunch and drinks, followed by walking around the town. We got stranded by a rainstorm and so we were driven do get more drinks. We all enjoyed dinner at a French restaurant called Chez Alex, where the waiter spoke English and I didn’t have to order for Mom and Dad. Or rather, I ordered for Dad, and then the water asked in English how he would like his steak done. (Way to steal my job!!) The next morning was a little clearer so we got a good view of the lake before heading back to Antigua on another exciting journey. I was sad to see Mom and Dad leave on Monday – but it helps to know I’ll be home soon.

Santo Hermano Pedro (Saint Brother Peter) procession on Sunday

Mostly I’ve been catching up on e-mails, phone calls, and homework this week – and my goal for the weekend is to get my history paper done – then I’ll be a third done with classes! Things I have yet to experience: hiking up the Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross) to get a great view of Antigua, attending a cooking school so I can cook for some more adventurous eaters like Mom, Beth, and Derrick, and learn what my birth date and time really means, according to the Maya.

I forgot to mention this before – thank you to those of you who sent me Easter cards, and mail in general – it brightens my day to hear from you!! I have learned that the Guatemalan postal service is more than a little unreliable. Take care and I can’t wait to see you all soon. I should be posting at least one more time before I head home.

Happy Easter!

Well, it's another Monday and I'm beginning to realize that I have a lot of work to get done before the semester is over. We have four more weeks of normal classes, then one of finals. It's hard to believe things are starting to wind down.


The second half of Semana Santa was pretty incredible. I got a chance to help make an alfombra (the key: patience, water, and a good sense of humor) on Holy Thursday, and then watched the procession destroy it. It's quite a sacrifice when you think of how much time pepople put into these works of art...hours and hours. I took advantage of the abundance of vendors to eat plenty of tostadas mixtas (see previous entry) and empanadas - sort of like apple turnovers, just not as gooey and buttery. A note on Guatemalan food: after a while it seems like everything is sweet, from coffee and tea to fruit (they eat a lot of fruit here) to bread to sodas. I can go days without having actual dessert and still feel like I have OD'd on sugar. So I guess that's why I drink beer, to balance things out ;)


I really enjoyed going to Masses and Laudes (Morning Prayer) this week. When you spend a couple hours at church every day, you begin to feel like you know everyone there, even if you never talk. It makes me feel a little at home. While Mass on Holy Thursday and the Good Friday service were packed, the Easter Vigil and Easter Sunday Masses were not nearly as full. It's like our professors tell us - in Latin America, there's much more emphasis on the sorrow of Christ's suffering and death than the joy of His resurrection. However, there was plenty of celebration in the carnival atmosphere of the processions throughout the week.


The Easter Vigil Mass was beautiful - as everywhere, it begins in the darkness (tinieblas), and then they light a small fire outside the church, light the Easter candle, and then we all light our candles from it. There was a cantor accompanied by guitar at the beginning of the Mass, as we stood, our candles illuminating the dark church. I have no words to express how...incredible this was. The weekend was fully of so many joyful moments. I could tell you about them but somehow it would not be the same. I miss home but am learning and growing so much here, it's worth it.


Yes, we went out for a "special" easter dinner - two of the other students and I - to an Italian restaurant. I indulged in tortellini in a cream sauce with bacon, and a glass of the house wine. Yes, it was amazing. Can't eat like that every day but it's a nice treat.

Midweek Update

Hello All! Somehow time passes all too quickly, and I find myself wondering, where did it all go? Life is difficult, but beautiful (as usual). Thank you to everyone who has sent me e-mails, messages, or who I've been able to talk/skype with lately. It really does help me so much.

I think I missed the "two thirds" mark, but now I'm into the last third of the program. It is strange to think of everything wrapping up. Mom and Dad are coming to visit in just over two weeks - I'm so excited!! Perhaps you all know the feeling of being excited to show other people the places you have come to know and love. Coming to Guatemala has completely removed me from life in the States and the familiar people, places, culture, and language. It will be fun for them to see my life here for themselves rather than through my eyes. How strange it will be to go home!

We are in the midst of Holy Week, and all of Antigua is going crazy making alfombras (carpets of colored sawdust or pine needles and flowers) over which the processions cross. Each church has its own processions, so I can hear the solemn music about every night from my house. Tomorrow begins the Easter Triduum, the three days of Holy Thursday (Jueves Santo), Good Friday (Viernes Santo) and Holy Saturday (Sabado Santo). The Mass of the Lord's Supper is on Thursday night and the Easter Vigil on Saturday night. This is a very special time of prayer and I'm excited to see all the celebrations in the city. From what I hear, there will be plenty of drinking going on in the city as people make the alfombras. I think some of the students and I are going to Easter dinner at a place called the Earth Lodge outside of Antigua. There's supposed to be ham, pumpkin pie, and so much more - American style :)


Yesterday we made an expedition to the City to get our tourist visas renewed, and somehow I got everyone to come with me to the Museo Nacional de Arqueologia y Etnologia (National Archaeology and Ethnology Museum). It was pretty much a dream come true (I'm not even joking!). Got to see so many artifacts, stelae and altars that we studied in Mesoamerican Archaeology last semester. I was told I was acting like a kid on Christmas morning (that's pretty much how I felt). So cool. The above picture is me with Stela 10 from Kaminaljuyu, dating from around 50 BC - AD 50 (though some archaeologists will give it a later date). I wrote a paper about this last semester, and the long hours paid off, just being able to see it. Other cool pieces: the ball court marcador from Tikal (to commemorate Spearthrower Owl!), jade inlaid or otherwise modified teeth, jade masks, incensarios, stelae and altars from Piedras Negras...you name it. Incredible. (End nerd rant).

I'm off for now - hope you all have a beautiful Easter. I miss you all so much! I'll let you know about the Easter celebrations next week.

Peace

Hello all! It's been a nice, lazy Saturday for me here in Antigua. We have the entirety of Holy Week (Semana Santa) off from classes, so after catching up on internship hours yesterday, I decided to relax today. I went out walking before breakfast (about 6:30am) and enjoyed the peace and quiet. Watched a bit of a movie, caught up on e-mails, and started to browse through some of the shops. I think we're going to go out dancing tonight, which should be fun. I don't intend on being this much of a bum all week!


I owe you all a bit more information on last weekend's excurisons. We headed out of Antigua around 4am Friday morning and arrived in Sayaxche in Peten around mid afternoon. Peten is the northernmost department in Guatemala (the big pink one), and Antigua is due west of Guatemala City. It was a long trip. We had an incredibly refreshing lancha (speedboat) ride to Aguateca, a terminal classic Maya site in the jungle, known for its defensive crack - which we got to hike through! We took the boat to our hotel (by this time it was dark and the stars were out, so we tried to pick out constellations since it was so clear), which seemed pretty luxurious to those of us used to paying for $5 beds in hostels when we travel.

The next morning we had another lancha trip back to Sayache, then took the van to Tikal. After lunch we spent about five hours exploring the site, and saw a bunch, though not nearly everything. It was so cool to pick out architectural details and understand a bit of their significance as it was to climb the pyramids and enjoy the view. We were pretty wiped and dehydrated for the trip to our lodging for the night. We stayed at a cooperative set up after the Peace Accords were signed, but I can't tell you much more than that, because I was sick and missed the presentation. I'm still alive, though, and mostly just relaxed during the long van ride home Sunday. I was even feeling well enough to eat Wendy's when we stopped for dinner that evening.

Looks like I'm out of time. Take care all, I miss you very much. I'll keep you updated with my religious revels this week :)

Sweet Water

Actually a decent picture

Pirate Face

Wench Pose

Hm...

No swimming...really?

Hello All! I know it’s been incredibly long since I’ve posted. Things have been going well and now I am officially halfway through the semester. After a project as well as written and oral exam in Spanish class, I think we’re going to get “midterm” grades. We only have six or seven weeks of classes left, come to think of it.

Through all my travels on weekends, I have remembered that what I love best is just to be at home. Whether that’s home in Clifton or Williamsburg, or home-away-from-home here in Antigua, that’s where I am happiest and most comfortable. So while there are a lot of places I’d like to visit, I’m going to keep the weekend trips to a minimum from now on. (It might also help to mention that I generally get sick when I travel…) That said, next weekend we are making the much anticipated trip to Petén. Yes, that means Tikal, and a few other sites as well. I’m pretty darn excited. Kelsey and Anna, I’ll say hello to the spirits of Spearthrower Owl and Yax Nuun Aiin (or however you spell it) for you.

Last weekend Tamara and I ventured to Rio Dulce and Livingston. A quick note on the name ‘Rio Dulce’: the noun ‘dulce’ can mean a sweet, cake, or pastry. The adjective can mean sweet, fresh, or tender. It probably translates to ‘Fresh River’ as this is where the river meets the sea (ten points if you’re thinking of the John Denver and the Muppets song). And unlike the popularized term of the same spelling, ‘Dulce de Leche,’ it is pronounced [d-oo-l-se] – not [d-oo-l-che]. Dang Argentineans (just kidding).

We spent Friday traveling: a van to Guatemala City, where we caught a bus to Rio Dulce. I sat next to a French guy and realized how badly I speak French now that Spanish has taken over. It was 5:30pm by the time we got there, so we got a luxurious hotel room – private shower in the room and everything! However, I feel obligated to add that there was no door separating the shower from the room… We got dinner at a place by the water and watched the evening light fade on all the boats harbored there, enjoying the smell of not-quite-the-ocean-yet.

Saturday after breakfast we headed out to the Castillo de San Felipe, a fort built in the sixteenth century to keep the dastardly pirates away. At one point I tried to make a pirate face, but realized how miserably I fail at it. After way too many bad pirate jokes and silly pictures, we headed back to Rio Dulce (the town). We got lunch at a hippy joint and took a scenic boat ride up the Rio Dulce (the river) to Livingston. It was beautiful –and there is nothing like that feel of the wind on your face as you speed through the water. I wasn’t feeling too well by the time we got to Livingston, so we got a couple beds at a hostel and I passed out. I wasn’t too up to dinner that night, but enjoyed watching Tamara eat her tapado: seafood stew that contained (literally) a whole fish and a couple cut up crabs and shrimp with plantains. She kept saying that the fish was staring at her. I would be inclined to agree.

We wanted to check out the music scene, but as ten o’clock rolled around and places still weren’t open, we dug in for the night. I’m a little sad I didn’t get to see more of the Garifuna culture in Livingston, but hey – I don’t have dengue or malaria, so I’m not complaining. We spent Sunday traveling home: boat to Puerto Barrios, taxi, double-decker bus to Guatemala City, taxi, and chicken bus back to Antigua. Somehow, that turned out to be a pretty efficient trip: 6:30am-2:30pm.

It was a pretty fun trip, although I’m sad I didn’t get the chance to drink rum in Livingston. ¡Que lastima! (what a shame!) I made up for it by going drinking and dancing, Guatemalan style, on St. Patrick’s Day. Don’t worry, I didn’t drink that much. I have to have my wits about me to beat off the men with sticks. Just kidding! Well, sort of ;)